Tuesday, 10 March 2015

Himalayan Sherpa...Death by Oil

I grew up on my dad's stories about his beloved Darjeeling. Everything from the crisp air to the beautiful scenery, fragrant tea and MOMOS!

Momo is a Tibetan specialty which seeped its way through the border into Nepal and therefore Darjeeling. It is a simple healthy dumpling dish which is steamed and served with spicy tomato dipping sauce. They are basically like “Baozi” and “Jiaozi”, if you are in a Chinese restaurant or “Gyoza” and “Nikuma”, if in a Japanese restaurant or even “Mandu” if you happen to dine in a Korean restaurant.

My first memory of Momo was the first time my father took me to Darjeeling. I had never been, so it was really a scene from out of one of our romantic Bollywood movies. Mountains, green hills, slight fog and just..beautiful. We were driving through the valleys with fragrant tea gardens on either side of the road and stopped at this dilapidated.."hut". There was a curtain for a door and it really looked like a run-down, old-school dank bar - like the ones in the movies where shady deals are made.

Having grown up in Nigeria and restaurants being a way of life, I, at the age of 12, turned my nose up and refused to go in. Spoilt little girl (that's 12 year old me) sat in the car. My father, naturally, left me there to wallow in my self-pity. Soon enough, the smell of hot sauce, noodle soup (Thukpa) and those heavenly Momo's wafted my direction.   I don't think I have ever apologized so quickly to my Father for being such a spoilt brat and promptly sat down to savour these dumpling jewels. That moment is forever ingrained in my memory and every time I hear or read about a Nepalese restaurant opening in Geneva - I MUST TRY IT! In pursuit of the perfect momo..sigh..or the "Darjeeling momo".

This is where Himalayan Sherpa comes in. I saw a deal on one of these "online shopping sites" for this restaurant. The picture of this deal had Momos and spicy tomato sauce on the side. So, I promptly bought this voucher and immediately booked a table. I did try to find out a bit about the restaurant on Google, but failed miserably as there was no website to this restaurant....my first sign to be worried.

My husband and I made a date out of this - dinner and a movie - I was so excited only to get there and see a couple of locals sitting outside a "restaurant" which was more like a café or a place you might just have a beer and a conversation if there is no other choice. What I noticed is that none of them were eating - my second cause for concern. Yes, the alarm bells did go off, but I was reminded of my first "spoilt" reaction to my little Darjeeling Momo Hut. So, I shook the worry from my head and bravely stepped in. 

A quick look at the menu and I had my 3rd cause for concern. I couldn't see any of the specialties from Nepal - Momos yes...but that was it. The rest was the usual North Indian food - Vindaloos, Naan, curries, Samosas etc. Here is a restaurant advertising itself as a Nepalese restaurant only because they happen to have Momos on their menu....

Being served our Momos after 20 minutes, I was expecting fragrant pungent steam to escape when I poked into the little jewel bags; instead, I receive a projectile of yellow oil onto my shirt. This is a NO NO! The meat inside had been fried and tasted awfully.....aged. So extremely off putting, I requested for some tomato spicy sauce so that I could drown these "Momos" into it hoping to disguise the taste. The owner comes out to say, "sorry, we don't serve this, we have only mint chutney"....sigh.. He clearly noted the anger and confusion on my face and then asked me where I come from. I said "Darjeeling" - in a clipped tone. The surprise and worried look on his face said it all - my 4th and winning cause for concern.

I left the "Momos" to swim in their oil (naturally), reined my patience in and decided to order something else - my trusted lamb Vindaloo with cheese and chilli naan. This has never failed me....except for now.   I received a ton of gravy and maybe a table spoon of meat. One of the pieces of meat was pure fat. The others must have come from a pre-historic goat as the meat was so tough; it gave my jaw a thorough workout.   At this point, I was so hungry, I just ate what was in front of me....I really REALLY shouldn't have. Let's just say I had to chew on 3- 4 Rennies before my tummy forgave me.

So....if you ever pass by this restaurant..RUN THE OTHER WAY. 

 

 

Monday, 9 March 2015

Taste of (All Things Wrong) Madras

Well..I guess the title says it all...

As you all know by now, I love LOVE Indian food. Therefore that love causes great passion when writing about my experiences in an "authentic" Indian restaurant. Mind you..one can be passionately angry...

I will start at the beginning. Like most food experiences, our most beloved dishes stem from child hood dreams. South Indian Cuisine (here on abbreviated as "SIC") is one of them for me.  As a child, my family and I would go to the restaurant every Monday, dubbed "Dosa day", without fail. Crisp hot "Indian crepes" would come out of the kitchen accompanied by tangy and spicy "Sambhar" (lentil soup prepared with vegetables and spices, the key ingredient being Tamarind), coconut chutney and spiced potato stuffing. I'm sure my fellow Indian's would agree that this is one of the most popular and beloved dishes in all of India...and that if anyone messed it up, they would be cursed into eternal fires of food hell.

Unfortunately, SIC is rare to find in Geneva - there are only 2 restaurants I know of that serve SIC. In my never ending quest to find my beloved Dosa, I was delighted to discover on BuyClub that "Taste of Madras" was one of these restaurants. I was so excited and jumping for joy, I almost bought 3 vouchers - I couldn't wait to have my fill of delicious Dosa! Remembering that I was not in India, I promptly reigned myself in and bought just one...thank goodness!


Now let me be clear, this resto is not pure SIC. The menu is dominated by North Indian dishes (hereon abbreviated as NIC) and has a healthy smattering of SIC. Our voucher allowed us to order a starter, main course, 1 naan, and 1rice per person - not bad! With no SI starters on the menu, I ordered my favourite, "Vegetable Samosas". I really don't think I need to explain what this is. It is one of the most divine and popular finger foods ever invented. It is meant to wake you up and zap your taste buds to life. Along with this, I ordered chai because I was cold. I couldn't wait to eat my hot spicy samosas with my cardamom infused chai...rrrr. Now for a combo that is meant to inspire such wonderful words, imagine my disappointment when I discovered that the samosas and the blasted chai both tasted of (for lack of a better word) nothing..I mean....NOTHING. Both looked and smelt great...that's where the buck stopped.

Next came my Dosa, whooping for joy when I saw it arriving, it looked.....deflating.... Dosa is meant to be a delicious and healthy dish, mine was soaked in Ghee. Once again, the "masala" part of it tasted of NOTHING. Honestly I think it was the same stuffing used for the Samosa. The "Sambhar" didn't even look like Sambhar let alone taste like one. In fact the star of the dish was the coconut chutney. Having waited and hunted for so long to find decent Dosa, I was feeling murderous and wanted to choke the chef "death by Dosa" style.

Masala Dosa
To ease the heartburn from the "Crazy Dosa", I wanted to extinguish my anger with sweet, delicious, comforting dessert. If you have been to enough Indian restaurants here, you know by now that you need to ask which dessert is made in-house (sadly it will never be the Gulab Jamun - so NEVER order it). The waiter suggested their in house Kulfi. Kulfi is Indian ice-cream. What is the difference? Kulfi is denser, creamier and usually comes in typical flavours native to India - Rose, Mango, Cardamom, Pistachio and Saffron. The most common, and the one which graced our table was a cardamom infused luxiourious beauty. It tasted every bit as good as it looked (finally).


Cardamom
Would I go back...maybe...after a long conversation with the waiter, I discovered that the chefs are from South India and specialise in SIC but not in NIC...my poor husband who had burnt butter chicken and dry Naan....I suspect that the resto is good for NIC vegetarian food only. I will try and report back :)